My toilet runs constantly. Can I fix that myself?
Probably, and we would rather tell you that than charge for a service call. It is nearly always the flapper or the fill valve, both inexpensive parts available at any hardware store, and both replaceable in about fifteen minutes with no special tools. Call us and describe what it is doing and we will tell you which part to buy. If you would rather not deal with it, it is a short visit for us — but you should know it is genuinely simple first.
Why does my toilet rock, and does it matter?
It matters more than it seems. A toilet should be completely solid, and any movement works against the wax seal underneath. Once that seal is compromised, every flush releases a small amount of water and sewer gas between the fixture and the flange — directly onto the subfloor. The cause is usually loose bolts, a cracked flange, or a subfloor that has already softened. Shimming it hides the problem while it continues to get worse, which is why we pull the fixture and look.
There is water around the base of my toilet. How bad is that?
It depends entirely on which of three things it is. Condensation on the tank in humid weather is harmless and appears gradually. A failed wax ring shows up after flushing and is a straightforward repair. A failed flange or a softened subfloor means the fixture is no longer properly anchored, and that is floor repair rather than plumbing. Wipe the area dry and watch when it returns — that tells you a lot, and it tells us a lot when you call.
My toilet clogs constantly. Should I replace it?
Maybe, but check the drain first. A fixture that clogs repeatedly can be downstream of a partial obstruction in the lateral, in which case a new toilet changes nothing. We have saved landlords from replacing multiple fixtures when the actual problem was root intrusion in a shared line. If the drain is clear, then the fixture may genuinely be the limitation — early-generation low-flow toilets had poor trapway design and no amount of plunging fixes that.
Can I buy my own toilet and have you install it?
Yes, and plenty of customers do. One important thing to check before you buy: the rough-in dimension, which is the distance from the finished wall to the bolt centers. Modern standard is 12 inches, but Russellville and Dardanelle homes from the 1940s and 50s frequently have 10-inch or occasionally 14-inch rough-ins. Measuring before ordering avoids a frustrating discovery after the old fixture is already out.
Is a comfort-height toilet worth it?
For many people, yes — particularly aging homeowners or anyone with knee, hip, or mobility issues. The bowl sits roughly two inches higher, which makes sitting and standing noticeably easier. Since the labor is essentially identical, if you are replacing a toilet anyway it is worth considering rather than defaulting to standard height out of habit.
